Karakuwa Peninsula, Kesennuma City marks the beginning of Miyagi Prefecture. The MCT course traces faithfully along the shoreline. The paved road is relatively flat and the only ups and downs are the road walk to and from Oya Mine Remains and the hiking trail up 511 meter Mt. Tatsugane. At 102 kilometers, the amount of distance the MCT covers in Kesennuma is second only to Ishinomaki, but since Ishinomaki’s section is interrupted midway by Onagawa Town, this is the longest continuous section in one municipality. Kesennuma has Karakuwa, warm and close to the sea, Oshima Island which was once only accessed by Oshima Ferry, Kesennuma city center which prospered from the fishing industry, and Motoyoshi close to the mountains and which prospered from mining.
This region has limited coastal area. The MCT route often meets up with National Route 45 which also stretches north to south, and the Hamakaido (Kesendo) route. While the road walking distance is long at 88 kilometers, the route has natural trails from Ogama to the Karakuwa Visitor Center in Karakuwa Peninsula, and also in southern Oshima Island.
Reach Karakuwa Peninsula, and next is a 19 kilometer walk along the peninsula. Karakuwa Peninsula resembles Hirota Peninsula, only with a broader central ridge, and houses in a wide area from the center to the east bank, giving a tidier sightseeing/neighborhood feel. Keep an eye out for splendid houses known as Karakuwa palaces: a unique aspect of Karakuwa with its many deep-sea fishermen. Kesennuma Port is a designated major fishing port, and a hub for deep-sea fishing.
There is a hiking course from Ogama Hanzo to Karakuwa Peninsula Visitor center which is mostly the same as the Miyagi Olle Kesennuma Karakuwa course and meets up with the MCT in many spots. Expect not to go down much to the seashore, instead walking along a well lit natural course for around seven kilometers atop cliffside which has ups and downs but is well maintained and easy to walk. Pass Karakuwa Peninsula Visitor Center to reach the western side of the peninsula and you should be able to see Oshima Island across the Karakuwa Strait.
18 kilometers of the MCT is on Oshima Island. Those coming back to hike the island later because of weather or other reasons can take the Miyako Bus from Kesennuma Station to “Uranohama Kesennuma Oshima Welcome Terminal.” When the MCT was first opened, the Kesennuma Oshima Island bridge hadn’t been built yet, so hikers took the Oshima Ferry and started their hike from what was Uranohama Harbor. Now this ferry boarding area is a “Welcome Terminal” which serves as a place to rest, eat light meals, and buy souvenirs. Instead of hiking clockwise, going to the welcome terminal to gather info at the start of your walk might be a good idea.
The view over Oshima Straight from Ohashi Bridge is spectacular. Next is going up Mt. Kameyama, a small mountain. At Mt. Kameyama Viewing Point, enjoy a panoramic view of Oshima Island and Karakuwa Straight from 235 meters. In Kesennuma city center, you will also go up Mt. Anbasan, and then come back down next to city hall, following the Hamakaido route. The MCT then turns left off the Hamakaido and goes through Kesennuma Port. Enjoy modern port city energy at Kesennuma Port Oshima Ferry Boarding Terminal, home to Exchange Plaza Pier 7 and Radio Kesennuma Gyotto FM’s studio. It’s a 17 kilometer road walk from Kesennuma Shark Museum to Oya Beach. Go along Kesennuma Bay and head for Matsuzaki Osaki Bosai Park near BRT Matsuiwa Station.
If you want to see historical Kesennuma streets, take a right after you come down from Mt. Anbasan towards Kesennuma Station to go from Komachi and pass through Keshozaka’s historical inn town area. Follow prefectural road 26 to the northeast to meet up with the MCT route again. The official route follows the Hamakaido route south from Matsuzaki Osaki.
Reach Oya Beach, and on the other side of the road is “Michinoeki (Roadside Station) Oya Kaigan” which gets many visitors for its shops and because it also serves as BRT Oya Kaigan Station’s waiting room. Besides shops, there are cafes and places to buy snacks, with a great view of Oya Beach. Hikers may have a hard time tearing themselves away.
Next, head toward Oya Mine Remains. Here the buildings from Oya Mine, which was in operation until 1976, remained preserved just as they were. The ria-style peaks from Kesen area all the way to Kinka Island were said to yield gold, so the entire view from Mt. Tatsugane is said to have been gold country. This Sanriku Coast is also the gold coast.
The MCT route goes through central Motoyoshi-cho. Outside the nostalgic Showa-style shopping district is supermarket Maiya Motoyoshi Hanamasu Store. Note you will be unable to buy supplies for 32 kilometers south of Motoyoshi as you go through Mt. Tatsugane and enter the Shizugawa area of Minamisanriku Town, so make sure to stock up here. The peak of Mt. Tatsugane is also the border between Kesennuma City and Minamisanriku Town, but even before that it would only have taken going past the Sanriku Expressway to enter Utatsu, Minamisanriku. Minamisanriku Town is the land of water and mountains. The ridges that surround Minamisanriku Town to form a watershed are the birthplace of several rivers including Hachiman River, Suijiri River and the majority of rainfall ends up in Shizugawa Bay.
Even now, the four areas of Minamisanriku have their own particular personality, and the MCT goes through all of them. At 38 kilometers, Minamisanriku’s section is shorter but is regarded as being tougher. About 28 kilometers are the approach to and from Mt. Tatsugane, about as far as with Mt. Hashikamidake. The sparse number of places to restock outside Shizugawa adds to the challenge. Plan to take your time and take lots of breaks, and the lush forest and ocean of Sanriku will welcome you.
From winter until spring, when snow has built up or during freezing conditions, there is a detour route through sunny Utatsu. Isatomae Bay on the detour holds its own in terms of beauty compared with Mt. Tatsugane. Turn at the t-juncture at Miyakata bus stop to detour into Utatsu. The Hamakaido also took the same route.
The main MCT route goes towards Hinokuchi. After a pleasant walk through Hinokuchi’s village and about one kilometer of logging road is the entrance to Gyoja no Michi, the path up the mountain. Take it slow and Gyoja no Michi will be easy to walk. Mt. Tatsugane is not as steep as the mountains to the north.
Come down from Mt. Tatsugane and away from Utatsu area to enter Iriya. Lodging facility Minamisanriku Manabi no Sato Iriyado is along the MCT course. Stay here, and you won’t have to worry about hiking without a full stomach, and Minamisanriku’s scenery will look that much brighter.
Getting to Minamisanriku San San Shopping Area in Shizugawa means taking a left at the mouth of Mizushiri River and crossing Hachiman River from Fukko Kinen Park. Go north a little up the national route and there’s a drugstore and supermarket. There are no large stores past Shizugawa until after Mt. Ishinage and reaching Onagawa Station. Restocking options are very limited in Kitakami and Ogatsu along the way. Best to stock up on tasty treats as well as regular backpacking food.
Enter the Togura area and pass Minamisanriku Marine Visitor Center to reach Cape Kamiwarizaki at the border of Minamisanriku Town. Walk for a while mostly staying off of but remaining close to National Route 398, visiting the fishing harbors at each small bay on the way. At the tip of Cape Kamiwarizaki is the border between Togura, Minamisanriku Town and Sanjuhama Kitakami-machi, Ishinomaki City.
Ishinomaki City has the longest distance to walk of all the 29 municipalities the MCT goes through, at 125 kilometers. Ishinomaki grew in size when nearby towns merged together, but each former village it contains has its own personality and way of life. Beginning at Cape Kamiwarizaki is the first such former village of Sanjuhama, Kitakami-machi.
The MCT route returns to National Route 398 and follows a simple 15 kilometer road walk from Cape Kamiwarizaki to Shinkitakami Bridge. As you enter Oppa Bay, Shirahama Swimming Area offers a nice place to rest, and the beach is close by. Approach Shirahama village and enter the mouth of the Kitakami River. The Kitakami area’s culture is river culture. The 250 kilometer Kitakami River is the longest river in Tohoku, and ends its long journey to pour out into the Oppa Bay. The area along Kitakami River has taken longer to recover from the tsunami, but little by little there are more buildings. The Ishinomaki River Visitor Center’s picnic area is just right for taking a break.
Tsuriishi Shrine is popular with students before taking exams because of its huge stone balanced without falling (failing). On the premises is Karaage Kokkoya, a karaage (fried chicken) shop that is popular with hikers for its karaage bentos and friendly owner. In front of Oppa Bridge and next to Maruyama Jizo statue is Nikkori Shop, decorated with its own jizo statue. It’s an important business to this area, as it sells bentos and groceries. Cross Oppa Bridge to enter Hashiura area, and then cross Kitakami River at Shinkitakami Bridge to reach Jusanhama. Here marks the end of the Kitakami area, and the end of the former Motoyoshi region which encompassed an area which started in Kesennuma.