Go through Ishizuka Pass and you enter the extensive Kesen region, centered around Takata.
The Kesen region is a cultural region encompassing Toni-cho, Kamaishi, Ofunato City, and Rikuzentakata, and also inland Sumida Town, Kesen District. Hongo in Toni-cho was devastated twice during the 1896 and 1933 tsunami so the village moved from the seaside to higher ground. There is a stone tsunami monument at the village entrance.
Hongo is now known for its cherry blossom road. Over 2800 cherry blossom trees were planted here on the emperor’s birthday in 1934 to pray for recovery from the 1933 tsunami. Toward the end of April, hikers possibly headed north will likely be welcomed by the blossoms.
Next, cross Kuwadai Pass and enter Sanriku-cho, Ofunato City. Of the 77 kilometers of the MCT course in Ofunato, only about 14 kilometers are natural trail, but Ofunato and especially Sanriku-cho goes through passes repeatedly, and the course also goes through capes extending out into the sea. The dazzling change in scenery from the road walking in Mori area to the Ofunato area port and beyond makes the Ofunato section a satisfying conclusion to the northern part of the MCT. In front of Sanriku Railway Rias Line Sanriku Station is a yellow building called “Shiome,” a kind of homemade community center and gathering/resting place visited by many hikers and run by Waichiryo Katayama, nicknamed Waichi-san.
Next past Okirai area is a walk through Cape Ryorizaki of about 15 kilometers that then returns to Ryori area city center. This trail has relatively gentle ups and downs and has an enjoyable 4 kilometers of natural trail along the ridgeline and going through the peak of Mt. Tateishi.
Meanwhile, note that once you pass from logging road into mountain trail this route has no toilets and no sources of water, so be prepared.
At the entrance of Ryori Kaido (Kujukumagari Pass), a road connecting Ryori area with Akazaki area on the Ofunato bay side is a split waterfall called Fudonotaki Waterfall. The gorge on the way to the falls is lovely as well. Nearby is Ryori River Dam, which has a park with walking paths. Midway along the reservoir, enjoy an up-close view of a splendid gazebo made by Kesen carpenters. There is a path going from the dam to Fudonotaki Waterfall, but it is currently closed due to collapse.
There are two main central parts along Ofunato Bay: Mori area, the commercial center, and Ofunato area with its fishing port. The two, as befitting the former Hamakaido route, are connected by National Route 45. Sanriku Railway/JR Ofunato line (BRT) Sakari Station is about 1 kilometer north of the trail course, but that is where central area Sakari-machi also lies, with many places to enjoy Ofunato’s local eats. Sakari’s morning market is held on days ending in a 0 or 5, so keep an eye on the date and visit if you can.
The last part of Ofunato’s hike is Misaki Peninsula, with the hike along this peninsula starting at Kadonohama Fishing Harbor. The MCT along Goishi Coast has a little less than 4 kilometers of natural hiking path, which may not feel like enough compared to the other peninsula walks until now. On the way, enjoy a pleasant walk through the ups and downs of the pine forest while gazing at Anatoshi-Iso Rock and little islands. If you hear the sound of thunder, don’t worry: it’s probably from the aptly named Thunder Rock. Goishi Coast Information Center is right nearby and has plenty of staff who enjoy hiking, so make sure to say hi. Since the trail lasts for only 4 kilometers, time spent here is too short. It might be a good idea to stay the night at Goishi Campground, relax, and enjoy that area. The scenery of red and black pines is just like Yosemite. Stock up before arrival, and you’ll be able to spend a wonderful night here.
The MCT in Rikuzentakata starts along the ridge stretching from Mt. Hakone to Cape Jagasaki and continuing on to Hirota Peninsula, which is beloved by many hikers. One of the top reasons is the Hirota Peninsula route map made by Hirota Elementary School students. This map, created by the sixth graders to introduce what they love above the area, helps direct hikers away from a tendency to look for tourist attractions and gourmet food to focus on something more pure. If you can read Japanese or are willing to try with a translation app, definitely pick up a copy or two at Rikuzentakata Tourism Association. Midway through the peninsula at Ono Beach is Hirota Swimming Area, with its lovely sandy beach. There’s a convenience store nearby, so it’s a great spot to take a break. From the swimming area towards Mutsugaura Fishing Harbor, you can take the walking course on the ocean side of the sea wall. The entrance to Kurosaki trail is next to a house in the back of Mutsugaura Fishing Harbor. While you will only walk the Kurosaki trail for about 4 kilometers, it makes for pleasant hiking. The course goes down to the sea in two spots, Koiwai Beach and Oiwai Beach. At the end of the hiking trail is Kurosaki Senkyo Hot Springs, where you can bathe enjoying an ocean view, and also have a bite to eat. On a day with good weather, try taking the peninsula counterclockwise, starting with a bath at Kurosaki Senkyo, hiking the Kurosaki trail, and then relaxing at Hirota Swimming Area.
The halfway point of the Michinoku Coastal Trail is in Hirota Peninsula, though the exact point differs by year because of detours. In any case, it’s worth celebrating the halfway point at a restaurant or with a bento from Daily Yamazaki at Ono Beach.
Takata-cho
The Sanriku Coast has few flat areas, but Takata-cho lies in the triangular plains formed at the mouth of the Kesen River. This plains area formed by the Kesen River carrying sand into the spacious Hirota Bay has historically been the center of the Kesen area. Kesen prospered from gold mining.
Now the commercial district for Rikuzentakata is about 1.5 kilometers inland from National Route 45 along Takata Matsubara, with the main facility being Abasse Takata. Abasse is surrounded by a lot, including Rikuzentakata BRT station, Rikuzentakata City Museum, the local tourism association, and many restaurants, so it’s a bit of a waste to just pass through quickly.
The MCT course keeps following National Route 45 and passes by the Iwate Tsunami Memorial Museum and Michinoku Eki (Roadside Station) Takata Matsubara close to BRT Kiseki no Ipponmatsu (Miracle Pine) Station, then crosses Kesan-Ohashi Bridge over Kesen River to enter Kesen-machi. Kesen-machi is quieter than Takata-cho, and you’ll be able to gaze quietly at your surroundings on the way to Karakuwa Peninsula. Yogai Fishing Harbor is the last point of Iwate Prefecture’s 500 kilometer long journey. Meeting up with National Route 4 also means saying farewell to the Kesen area, as you enter Karakuwa-cho in Kesennuma City, Miyagi Prefecture. This marks the end of the first five books of the MCT Hiking Map books. About 500 kilometers remain.