The course enters the ria coastline, formed when mountain ridges from the Kitakami highlands sank into the ocean, leaving capes and peninsulas above water. Move along the coast and cross these rib-like ridges, sometimes by going over them through passes, and sometimes circling the peninsulas. The MCT course goes through central Miyako, located in the alluvial plain formed at the mouth of the Hei River, followed by about 15 kilometers of flat road walking to reach Mt. Gassan trailhead in Shirahama village. Cross Tsugaruishi River by walking over the sluice gate bridge. This river is well known for salmon runs, and once tens of thousands of salmon could be fished in a day. Past Tsugaruishi River lies Omoe Peninsula, the largest peninsula in Sanriku. The highest peak on Omoe Peninsula is Mt. Junijin, a huge massif towering above its surroundings at 730 meters. The MCT course makes a full trip along the Omoe Peninsula including Mt. Gassan, and these 50 kilometers along the peninsula ending in Osawa area in Yamada Town will captivate hikers with its gorgeous scenery, distance, and wilderness. While there are village areas in each beach area, only one area on higher ground between Otobe Fishing Harbor and Omoe Fishing Harbor has stores.
Mt. Gassan (455 meters) is the first mountain climb on the MCT since Mt. Hashikamidake, and while the steps are showing their age, it should still be an enjoyable climb. Other climbs are ahead, including Mt. Karogadake and Mt. Kujira. The viewpoint at the top of Mt. Gassan is spacious and shows a view all across Miyako Bay and Miyako city center. While going up every peak isn’t the point of enjoying long distance hiking, this view cannot be missed.
Enter Omoe Nature Trail from Yona on the outskirts of Omoe Village, which is a natural path that lasts for 9 kilometers. On the way, enjoy a view over the Pacific Ocean from the easternmost point of Honshu, Cape Todogasaki. The campground next to Aneyoshi Fishing Harbor at the trailhead was available for day camping only for a long time, but overnight stays are now allowed since April 2023. This campground has water, nice toilets, gazebos, and a vending machine outside the grounds, so even hikers arriving early in the day would want to stay the night. Between the campground and Omoe village lies the Aneyoshi stone tsunami monument. Aneyoshi village was completely destroyed in the 1896 tsunami and then again in the 1933 tsunami, and the monument is inscribed with this message: “High dwellings mean peace and happiness for our descendants. Remember the calamity of the great tsunamis. Don’t build any homes below this point.” Let’s consider why Aneyoshi Campground was only a day campground for so long. Sabukaze Pass is the northernmost pass on the MCT and the first pass on the course for southbounders. Many passes are waiting south of here to pass over ridges protruding into the sea.
Pass through Kawashiro village, the southernmost part of Miyako, and enter Yamada Town. Kawashiro area is connected to Osawa area in Yamada through a village road called Terachigoshi Pass. The bus from Miyako Station only goes to Ishihama village before this area, and doesn’t come as far as Kawashiro.
From Osawa area, follow the line of Yamada Bay and head toward Mt. Karogadake, crossing the pass to enter northern Osawa area and walking mainly roads through Yamada and Orikasa areas. Further south is Funakoshi Peninsula, which is like a smaller scale version of Miyako City’s route with a climb up Mt. Karogadake and Okamazaki Nature Trail.
The fact that there’s no place to stock up may also remind you of Omoe Peninsula. At the end of Yamada City at the border between towns, Mt. Kujira is waiting. The 59 kilometers inside Yamada Town have lots of natural hiking trails and mountain courses, making for a rich hiking experience, and should take at least three days and two nights.
The central part of Yamada Town, which was an inn town on the Hamakaido route, stretches along national route 45 north to south and is easier for hikers to access than Kuji and Miyako which are spread out along a wider area. Local supermarket Bihan and day-use hot spring and hotel Yulax are compactly situated in front of Rikuchu-Yamada Station. There are also many restaurants, so this area is a perfect inn town (trail town) even now.
Funakoshi Peninsula juts away from Yamada Bay in the south and Funakoshi Bay in the north, and its distinct shape compared further inland make spots like Mt. Karogadake and Mt. Tatarayama seem like islands. The trail course follows most of the peninsula before returning to the Funakoshi area. Covering this peninsula takes a hefty 33 kilometers, so those intending to try and walk it in a day should plan to start early.
The climb up Mt. Karogadake in earnest starts at Karogoku entrance. The peak is at 503 meters, while the elevation at the course entrance is 231 meters, which means a 276 meter climb to the top. The top of the mountain isn’t spacious, but shows clear views of Yamada Bay and the Kitakami mountains lying past the villages you’ll have just hiked through.
Pass the summit and it’s a quick drop back down to Sukuiso Coast. The rocky beach at Sukuiso Coast is further away from town and not super convenient, but has a nice pleasant spaciousness. Hikers in a hurry to hike the peninsula in a day will regret not being able to stay longer. Rest spot for hikers “Kinoko House” is in a former Sukuiso Shiitake Producers Association building and is maintained by volunteers.
Okamazaki Nature Trail follows a valley, without changing altitude and dipping up and down towards streams. This trail is over 5 kilometers because of all the zig-zagging, but it makes for good hiking on a natural path. There are no open spots good for taking breaks on this trail so it’s better to eat at Sukuiso Coast beforehand.
Finish Funakoshi Peninsula and the last part of the Yamada Town section awaits with Mt. Kujira.
Mt. Kujira is the highest point in the ria coast area at 609 meters, and the second highest mountain on the MCT. As you climb Mt. Kujira, you also enter Otsuchi Town.
The MCT course inside Otsuchi Town going through Kirikiri area and Otsuchi area is not long at 23.5 kilometers, and is mainly road walking after the natural hiking trail at Mt. Kujira. Hikers who have cleared Funakoshi Peninsula’s Mt. Karogadake and Mt. Kujira will be able to relax a bit starting at Namiiita Beach. Around where Oshacchi district was before the tsunami are facilities like Otsuchi Town Cultural Exchange Center “Oshacchi” as well as cafes and convenience stores. In front of Otsuchi Station is a street of bars and restaurants called Sanriku Yatai Village Otsuchi Marumaru Yokocho. Further back in the city center is Mast shopping mall, with stores including Maiya supermarket, and there’s also a day-use hot springs facility “Mast no Yu” which offers a bath and a place to eat with Restaurant Horaijima. Otsuchi, once an inn town, lives up to its reputation even now.
Kamaishi City is situated at the southernmost part of what was once the Morioka Domain. At 68 kilometers, the Kamaishi section may look like it’s an easier distance, but this course going through Unosumai, Ryoishi, Kamaishio, and Toni areas (once individual villages) crosses passes like Toyasaka and Ishizuka Pass as well as going all the way around Hakozaki Peninsula, so covering this distance doesn’t come easily.
In Unosumai, the course the MCT takes from the national highway toward higher ground is the route Kamaishi Higashi Middle School students took to evacuate from the 2011 tsunami. Looking down at the city from above to understand how large-scale the tsunami was. The course back down was used as an evacuation route as well. This course teaches that nature’s beauty and danger are two faces of the same coin. The MCT route from Unosumai Station at the base of Hakozaki Peninsula to Ryoishi Station after walking around the peninsula is about 33 kilometers, with nothing on the way to stock up on supplies.
Secluded Ohakozaki Cape (and the Senjojiki rock formation) lies at the tip of Hakozaki Peninsula, with scenery beautiful enough to merit being designated as part of the Tohoku Nature Trail. Step into Kamaishi city center, a historically thriving center of the steel industry, and encounter a commercial district surprisingly full of establishments. Shopping mall Aeon Town Kamaishi in central Kamaishi acts as a base for midway point trail restocking. Kamaishi also has plenty of hotels, including Hotel Folkloro Sanriku Kamaishi, which connects to Kamaishi Station and also offers day bathing use. The many izakayas around offer a chance at experiencing a night life that can’t be seen while hiking.
Heita Area
Next is the Heita area, at the base of Osaki Peninsula. This time, the MCT does not go around the peninsula, instead crossing at its base and going through Hamakaido Route and Ishizuka Pass. Ishizuka Pass was on the border of the Nanbu (Morioka) and Date (Sendai) domains and follows the Hamakaido to Toni area. There is one collapsed spot on the route, but the logging road is an easy walk. Cross Ishizuka Pass to enter what was once part of Kesen District.